Home Forum Surfing Tips Best Value / Best Function in Belts ???

This topic contains 13 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  kayakeradams 5 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #2645

    VSG
    Member

    The original quick release on an Island ski I bought a few years ago was a piece of junk and I thought it was original equipment. My friend from the East coast surfed with me yesterday and mentioned that Island belts are actually really good. I saw the Solamanzi belts at Ventura and they looked pretty decent, but expect would be pricey by the time you pay shipping. I use dive belt catches , but want something quicker to get into, very easy to release and something that will last .

  • #9219

    KED
    Member

    The KOLASKI and SOLAMANZI belts – are, in my experience and opinion, the best waveski belts on the market. Reasons: They offer two release options 1) the nylon buckle which will not bend, rust, jam, dig into your legs, or ding your ski in a wipeout if you decide to bail 2) the adjustable belt strap. The strap is held in place with a lot of velcro and can be released if needed. I have been using a KOLASKI belt for over 10 years. I have never had a problem with it and feel secure in knowing it is going to release if/when I need it to. Both belts have some padding which is soooooooo nice when the whitewater is trying to tear you off your ski. You can get belt pads to put on any belt for extra padding if you want… I think you can get a set from Wavemaster or Tsunami. As far as “best value” goes… ummmmmm, I’d say go with the belt you feel safest with cuz that will be the belt with the best value regardless of cost.

  • #9220

    tyler
    Member

    I am now the solamanzi rep for the US so if you need a belt or seat let me know i will be getting a shipment relatively shortly. the belt buckle is the same as kolaski but with dual velcro adjustment and padding. prices for seats are $46 and belts are $60…

    cheers

    tyler

  • #9221

    BrianM
    Member

    @tyler wrote:

    I am now the solamanzi rep for the US so if you need a belt or seat let me know i will be getting a shipment relatively shortly. the belt buckle is the same as kolaski but with dual velcro adjustment and padding. prices for seats are $46 and belts are $60…

    cheers

    tyler

    Could you post some pictures? I’ve thought about upgrading as I slip around on the seat quite a bit (most notably when paddling out) but I’m not sure if changing the seat and/or belt would make much of a difference.

  • #9222

    Mind
    Member

    @brianm wrote:

    Could you post some pictures? I’ve thought about upgrading as I slip around on the seat quite a bit (most notably when paddling out) but I’m not sure if changing the seat and/or belt would make much of a difference.

    If you are slipping in the seat, the problem is not the belt. The problem is you are probably using a closed cell foam that gets slippery when wet. Get a decent minicell foam and rough it up with sandpaper.

  • #9223

    ramon
    Participant

    My seat are at angles and I don’t slip anymore. What I might suggest is a small piece of Non skid diamond deck pad. http://www.thesurfboardwarehouse.com/s-79-traction.aspx?gclid=CMzY07epgq0CFacZQgod7D7SRw I cut up a piece that was on another seat and it was good for 3 other boards. That should do it if not check to make sure you have the proper seat to feet distance, a cattle catcher or use a seat pad that holds your butt in place like shown and you should not slip anymore………r

  • #9224

    kayakeradams
    Member

    Ramon, where did you get your seat and who made it?

  • #9225

    ramon
    Participant

    some polock who thinks he lives in disneyland, whoops that be me. Trial and error. Some of mine don’t look pretty but they work. I found that higher sides helped to keep my toosch in place better. And different boards and seat pans needed different seat pads. And I was redoing my seat pans to get the right seat to feet distance(my legs(femurs) are 3″ shorter than someone my height). I use velcro on my board 2″ wide strips 2 of them with 1″ wide strips on the pad.

    When I started I was taking off seat pads so often I got tired of how long it took, the glue remover and what was left of torn seat pads. Plus I added to the pad to get the fit I wanted.
    Got a bunch now. Things and my preference change in trying to get it better…..r

    cheapest place I found to get minicell foam was ebay…….usually in the scraps section. File cleaning brush works best for me in shaping them….

  • #9226

    kayakeradams
    Member

    Thanks 🙂

  • #9227

    KED
    Member

    Ramon, do you live on Oahu? One of your skis looks like an old Island ski I parted with a while back.

  • #9228

    ramon
    Participant

    the top one is a 710 jbay or which there was only 1 previous owner who didn’t want the ski.
    I got it from roy like new.

    2nd is a 8’2″ hemp jbay I got from lanny spencer in northern calif. both have exactly the same measurements ….only one has pencil rails made for 160 lbs the 2nd for around 200+

  • #9229

    KED
    Member

    Got the Island part right : ) I put a drain plug in the back deck of my Island Longboard, same place!
    A question, please… Where does one go to purchase a piece of foam as thick as the pieces you used for your seats?

  • #9230

    kayakeradams
    Member

    Also, how did you determine what dimensions to use for the seat for comfort and fit? depth, width, shape of butt. etc. 😀

  • #9231

    ramon
    Participant

    2 other things I just thought of.I trace the parts on the 1st layer or base minicell. I mark them with a felt pen and I have indexes like arrows that have to match…..if you don’t you may miss the mark and then you’ll have gaps and wedge cuts to make. BTDT The other thing I have never gotten two was trying a head support…ya know the plastic ones you can put around your neck in the bathtub…kinda like what you might wear after an injury….but inflatable plastic so you can regulate the pressure..that might be a good way to custom fit your seat. I think it’s the same thing they use in ski boots or helmets.

    I buy 1″thick mincell foam.(cheapest source was Ebay…don’t have it there all the time)..sometimes in the scraps they have a few different thicknesses and they sell it as a lot…you have to know what “clean” foam goes for to know if it’s a deal or not. Check NRS or google it. Even commercial seat pads like hot seats may not be symmetrical. I used a hot seat for a template. kinda

    For one board I added a lil. around the edge. After you cut it or before you cut it fold the cardboard or paper in half and that way you’ll cut it twice as fast but more importantly it will be symmetrical. Check and see how it fits on your seat pan. The reason I like one inch thick is that it can still bend to the contour of the seat pan slope. Now if you want something to hold you there better what I do is cut strips 1″ thick and maybe 2-2 1/2″ wide(this is where some experience or better yet to know what kinda seat fit you are looking for) You probably won’t be able to make it in one piece…I usually do it in 2-3 and stop at the bottom where the cow wedge is. I do that triangle separately. Do trial fittings before you glue it(water proof contact cement only…can’t get it in CA anymore…..I had to get some from texas) Now the reason I make it so wide is for the inside slope unless you have a square butt edge I don’t) After you get the gluing(including the strips of velcro on the bottom of the seat pad) all done wait a day and then you can start shaping the inside curve..a lil at a time. If you are not sure try sitting on it. I’ve reshaped mine days even weeks after first using it just to get the fit I wanted. Did it right at the beach while it was on my ski(I carry file cleaners with me)

    Texturing the seat so you don’t slide or sanding it with #40 grit so you do is all personal preference. The best way I found to keep from sliding was the deck pad I showed above.
    I was lucky..someone left some on a board I have. Even jus a lil will do the trick.

    Now one thing I wanted to do(3-4 years ago) and I still haven’t gotten to is make a butt mold.
    Get some sand…make a hump. sprinkle with water. Cover with heavy duty plastic. Sit in it with a wetsuit on. Already have some plaster of paris handy……and mesh 1/4 x 1/4″ or chicken wire or whatever. Make a couple so you don’t have to do it again or if you know how use 2 part foam and pour away… you could even glass the butt side. Congratulations you have a legacy. I was going to do this so I could get a proper fit on any board on any seat. Each of my seats are different…… I even have an assortment of wedges and spacers. My suggestion …keep it as simple as possible. Your aim is to have fun in the water……I don’t have much of a butt so I needed something to keep it in place.

    I didn’t share all my secrets but if still have ??’s ask away. In some cases I had to reshape the seat pans multiple times on multiple boards.not the minicell foam but the ski seat pan itself…that’s after glassing it each time…….different boards .different volumes = different seat heights . I’ve even used it to add on flotation oh if you wish to know how I glue or set up
    the velcro let me know and I’ll post a couple of picks

  • #9232

    kayakeradams
    Member

    Wow – lots of great information… I feel a project coming on.. 😀

    Really appreciate it…. I’ll post the results.

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