June 10, 2015 at 3:44 am #3054
I like a nice edge. When I used to windsurf I wanted the water to release clean and fast.
Since I started to waveski it now has evolved to having an nice crisp thin tail rail edge and thin rails through out the board up to the nose. Once I remember hanging at the top of a 5′ plus vertical wall. I was cast sideways kinda in the air over the falls. The board would not release so I could drop in. The rails were thick and round 50/50 at best and went that way from nose to tail. Of course I’ll take some credit for that one.(the local boardies wanted to know if I was ok….I remember hearing my back crack) Since I’ve only purchased hand me down’s I always get to make modifications and repairs. First board needed some work but I really got a nice edge on the rails after some repairs and block sanding. Board has only one coat of primer so far. You can click on the images to get a better view.
Second board I’ve had for awhile and after redoing the rails with carbon I really never block sanded to get the rails straight the way I wanted getting rid of any waves or small dips. The way I get rid of any waves, dips or whatever is I use microballons and keep putting layers and blocking each one until everything is kosher. I also wanted a cleaner and longer edge on this board because it was shorter(7′ 4″) and had so much rocker in it. I wanted to see how it would ride putting an edge farther up the rail hoping it could be faster and more precise. Haven’t tried it yet………but will later this month some time.(I’ve got another I want to finish first).
you can see where I need to put more layers to fill in the lil craters and then blend it in with the existing bottom curve. here you can see how the added edge material is thinner at
the rear and gradually gets thicker up towards the nose. All the whitish material(micro balloons and epoxy) was painstaking added. If the edge is too sharp up towards the nose I can always adjust the roundness by sanding it down until I get it to an optimum place. I put it on over the existing glass just in case. And since it’s carbon I know where the rail used to be. But at least now it will be straight.
Here is another board I got as a backup. The rail profile shown is at the footstraps. Way too thick, big and soft for my preference. I moved the fins, straps and seat as far back as I could so I wouldn’t have to deal with the rail as much. Since I don’t want to remove the glass/veneer what I will do is add strip of of foam to the outside of the rail and glass it with 4 oz cloth. That way I can get an edge even if the rail isn’t as thin as I want.
I’m going to do the same thing to another board on the front third of the ski. That board has 1/8″ rails(which are thinner than most short boarders rails)and so much concave so the rails are below the center line of the board. Makes the ski fast but precarious to surf esp when one comes out of a critical section. Ski and rider have a tendency to catch. So I’m going to add up to 1″ of bevel on each side of the outline rail tapering it back to about the mid line point on the board to help correct this. If the rails were thicker(and I have a board that has them the tendency to catch is much less) I’ll post it when I’m done and have tried it. So one can always modify what you have without having to go and get a new board. You may even improve it.
June 13, 2015 at 1:50 pm #11119
Man , you sure put a lot of work into your modifications!
In my formative years I hooked up with a born again down rail advocate named George Panton. For years (early 70-mid 70’s) I rode nothing but hard-chined downrailers. Very fast boards , planed really well. Didn’t catch rails , either.
I think that you are barking up the right tree.
June 13, 2015 at 7:55 pm #11120
It’s therapy. Rather than chanting some matra I enjoy the sound of a flat board against a resin surface. I like to see if I can improve something (at least for me). Plus it was a good way for me to learn about shaping. Trying to reconstruct incorrect repairs esp on the rails and bottom I have to put back things that were taken away(low spots)and take away things(bumps and extra glass)that shouldn’t be there. On one board it took a long time but I wanted to put it back the way it was made so I could see the blending of the curves and take some accurate measurements off of it. You can really learn alot by having to reconstruct something.
Did George have some bevel(or rounded up) on the rails from the bottom under the turned down rail? r
June 15, 2015 at 11:46 am #11121
I still have a George Panton downrailer. It is a variation on his “Water Melon”. Too bizarre to describe ; I will take pictures. The bottom of his boards were FLAT , no bevel or vee. They really flew.
I will work on photos if it ever stops raining. CK
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